Đồng Hới Beach – Touching the Taste of the Sea

20-04-2025 09:53

There are places you visit once and forget, but there are also lands that touch you with all your senses—through light, sound, scent, the salty taste, and tender memories. For me, Đồng Hới is such a place. A small city by the Nhật Lệ coast, where a single visit makes you feel not just seeing the sea—but truly touching its essence.

Đồng Hới – An April Afternoon

It was the cusp of seasons. The breeze carried the warmth of late spring and the faint dryness of early summer, with the salty sea air hitting my face as I stepped off the bus. The sunlight was gentle, not harsh, as if caressing my skin after days of drizzle.
Unlike the flamboyant beaches elsewhere, Đồng Hới appeared like an old friend—simple, familiar, and full of stories to tell.
While Quảng Bình is often tied to renowned names like Phong Nha – Kẻ Bàng or Sơn Đoòng Cave, few realize that Đồng Hới’s beach is what captivates travelers with its subtle, heartfelt simplicity.
“The sea remains unchanged, dusk falls in quiet reverie,
Silver waves kiss the pensive white sand.
Those who come never wish to leave,
For Nhật Lệ holds their soul.”

Nhật Lệ Beach – Where the Sun Paints Dreams
Few who visit Đồng Hới miss the morning moment when the sun gently casts warm rays, teasing the soft waves.
In April, the sea is cool, with a lingering spring breeze tugging at your steps. Walk barefoot on wet sand, listen to the whispers of waves, and feel a surge of youth pulsing in your chest.
“I stand by you, listening to the waves sing,
Nhật Lệ’s breeze softly brushes the soul.
A city leaning by the sea,
Each dusk stirs the heart.”
(From “Nhật Lệ Beach,” poem by Trần Trung Hiếu)
The white sand stretches endlessly. The air is so fresh you want to breathe the entire sky into your lungs. In the distance, fishing boats return from a night at sea. Everything moves in a slow, peaceful, and honest rhythm.

Bảo Ninh – A Gentle Touch of Memory

This season, Bảo Ninh beach is neither crowded nor lively. Once a pristine stretch of sand, it’s an oasis shaped by the silt of the Nhật Lệ River and the sea’s sand—one side freshwater, the other saltwater. Bảo Ninh’s unique ecosystem has sustained generations.
I lay on Bảo Ninh’s sand, doing nothing, just letting the breeze tousle my hair and the waves hum softly in my ears.

“The sea calls me back to verdant Bảo Ninh,
Where a mother mends nets by the porch,
Fathers weathered by sea salt,
And childhood races beneath a slanted sky…”

Quang Phú – Sunset Over Sand Dunes
Unlike Nhật Lệ or Bảo Ninh, Quang Phú blends raw wilderness with untamed freedom—a land where wind and sand remain untouched. Endless white dunes rise like frozen waves, soft yet fierce in the evening breeze.
I arrived at Quang Phú as the sun set, its light dyeing the dunes’ curves in warm honeyed hues. The wind calmed, leaving only the crunch of sand underfoot.
I rented a sandboard, climbed the highest dune, and slid down as the wind flung white sand into the air. In the distance, groups of youths raced ATVs across the slopes, leaving winding tire tracks like stirred memories.

Nhân Trạch – Where the Sea Sustains Life
I visited Nhân Trạch the next morning. Unlike bustling tourist beaches, Nhân Trạch doesn’t flaunt its beauty but quietly tells the story of a sea intertwined with livelihoods.
Here, the sea is not just a view—it’s life itself, a companion to generations. I saw sun-weathered men returning from a night on the waves, elderly women sorting shrimp by their porches, their calloused hands paired with eyes as calm as still water. Children carried water from wells to the beach, running barefoot on wet sand, their laughter ringing under the morning sun.
The sea at Nhân Trạch never rests. It’s the evening meal, a mother’s lullaby, the pungent scent of fish sauce wafting from early morning kitchens.
In the morning mist, the fish market by the dike,
Vendors’ calls echo to the distant sea.
An old woman sorts shrimp,
Her trembling hands but eyes of ocean blue.
Children carry water swiftly,
Sand clings to small feet, the sun salty and warm.
No need for city glamour—
The sea feeds the village, nurturing years of love.
Standing in the seaside fish market, I inhaled the scent of salt, fresh seafood, and the sweat of labor—and realized the sea here isn’t for admiring, but for living with.

Đồng Hới Seafood – Not Just Food, but a Story

I’ve eaten seafood in many places, but in Đồng Hới, it’s not just delicious—it tells a story.
At Nhật Lệ’s fish market, I saw shimmering mackerel and prawns twitching in baskets. I was offered spicy grilled squid, fiery yet sweet—a flavor unmistakable. Steamed nục fish wrapped in rice paper, grilled hanh fish, beer-steamed crab… each dish spoke of a sunny day, a fishing trip, a warm family meal.
The highlight was cá khoai lẩu, a simple fish hotpot that left me speechless at dinner. The fish melted in my mouth, the broth surprisingly light. No need for heavy spices—the sea’s flavor was enough.

Farewell – Carrying the Taste of the Sea
I left Đồng Hới early in the morning. In my backpack were packets of sun-dried squid, Nhân Trạch shrimp paste, and pure fish sauce—but my heart carried more. I took with me Nhật Lệ’s sunrise, Quang Phú’s sunset, the fishermen’s laughter, and the sea’s lingering saltiness.
And I know I’ll return.
Not to “travel,” but to live slowly again, by the sea—where I once touched the taste of nature, memory, and myself.

Hồng Hải