A Journey Back in Time on Route 20 – Quyết Thắng

05-07-2025 17:42

We set off from the town of Phong Nha, where the gentle Son River glides peacefully beneath arches of limestone mountains. Our vehicle rolled along Route 20 Quyết Thắng – once a vital lifeline that buckled under relentless bombing during wartime. Today, the landscape is astonishingly green and tranquil, a far cry from its former days as a “fire coordinate” – one of the most heavily bombarded areas of the Trường Sơn range.

This 125-kilometre route begins at Km0 in Xuân Sơn (Phong Nha, Quảng Bình) and stretches across the majestic Trường Sơn mountains into Laos. During the resistance against the Americans, Route 20 played a strategic role in supplying the southern battlefield, linking the eastern and western arms of the legendary Hồ Chí Minh Trail. Opened in early 1966 by passionate young volunteers in their twenties, the road was named “Quyết Thắng” (“Determined to Win”), reflecting the unyielding will of those who paved the way.

More than 10,000 soldiers, youth volunteers, and logistics workers perished defending this route — a staggering figure that left me silent when our guide mentioned it. Route 20, then, is not just a road; it stands as a symbol of bravery, resilience, and the immense sacrifices made by our military and people during the war for national salvation.

A Journey Back on Route 20

Legendary Landmarks Along Route 20

Along the way, I encountered many “red addresses” — sites marked by their heroic past. Most striking was Hang Tám Cô (The Cave of Eight Youths) at Km16.5 — a place now etched into legend. Nestled in the rockface is a small memorial temple, where incense perpetually curls into the air, lending a solemn and sacred atmosphere.

According to the account, on 14 November 1972, American B52 bombers launched a brutal attack on the area, causing a massive rock to collapse and seal the cave’s entrance. Inside were eight youth volunteers (four men and four women) from Unit 217, trapped during their mission. Their comrades outside could still hear their cries and managed to feed them thin porridge through a narrow plastic pipe. But by the ninth day, all eight had perished, leaving behind a profoundly moving tale of sacrifice. The small cave has since been called “Hang Tám Cô” — an eternal witness to the courage of youth on the fiery frontlines of Trường Sơn. Standing silently at its entrance, I felt deeply moved thinking of these young lives lost forever to the forested mountains.

Not far from there lies Hang Cô Y Tá (Nurse’s Cave), associated with the sacrifice of Nurse Nguyễn Thị Sặng. She heroically died during a bombing raid in June 1972 while escorting wounded soldiers near Km18. Her comrades later named the cave in her memory.

20 Quyết Thắng Memorial Site

Other historical points along Route 20 include Ba Thang Slope, the “A” Curve, Ta Lê Ford, and the crucial sites of Trạ Ang and Cà Roòng. Each place bears witness to fierce battles and glorious victories. I paused at every roadside memorial, quietly reading inscriptions weathered by time, as if listening to echoes of the past resonating through the endless forest.

A particularly poignant memory from my journey was hearing about the Long Đại Ferry Terminal — another wartime “fire point” in Quảng Bình, though not located on Route 20. This ferry once played a vital role on the Trường Sơn supply line and endured relentless bombardment from American forces. The image of transport soldiers bravely manning the ferry under a hail of bombs, ensuring the passage of convoys across the Long Đại River, is an enduring epic deeply etched into the memory of Quảng Bình's people. These stories enriched my journey, offering a deeper understanding of the cost of independence and freedom.

The Cave of Eight Youths

Recreating the Legendary Trường Sơn Trail – Command Cave

The highlight of this journey was visiting the newly opened eco-tourism site “Legendary Trường Sơn Trail – Command Cave” at Km12 of Route 20. The entrance features two model anti-aircraft guns flanking the gate, instantly evoking memories of the old battlefield.

Crossing through the lush primary forest of Phong Nha – Kẻ Bàng National Park, I reached the entrance of Command Cave, tucked beneath towering limestone cliffs. Few would imagine that deep within this World Natural Heritage site lies a once-secret military depot. Command Cave (also known as N.H. Cave or the “Seven-Level Cave”) served as a logistical base for Battalion 14 of Group 559. Here, soldiers stored thousands of tonnes of weapons and supplies to support the southern front.

The cave stretches approximately 150 metres, with seven levels and numerous chambers resembling a fascinating underground labyrinth. Stepping into the cool, dark interior felt like travelling back in time to the smoke-filled days of war. Inside, soft lighting and mist recreate wartime scenes. Each level is set up like a “living museum”: one displays weapons and gear, another a field hospital, and yet another features vintage communications equipment. Passing by life-size models of soldiers and volunteers clearing rocks, I almost expected them to spring to life and speak in the night air of Trường Sơn.

Deeper inside, sudden flashes and booming explosions startled me — part of a striking 9D virtual reality experience. I joined other visitors aboard a military-green ZIL-131 truck simulator. As the film began, the entire space shook with roaring wind and the smell of smoke, plunging us into the thick of Route 20’s wartime inferno. For a brief moment, I felt the fierce courage and unbreakable resolve of the truck drivers who once braved these paths. The experience was so vivid it gave me goosebumps, and many veterans with us were moved to tears as memories of a heroic era came flooding back.

Trường Sơn Trail – Command Cave Tourist Site

Returning to the Light with a Heavy Heart

Emerging into the midday sun from Command Cave, I was still overwhelmed with emotion. The trip felt like a journey through time — from today’s serene green forests of Trường Sơn back to a battlefield of unimaginable intensity. The people of Quảng Bình often speak with pride of Route 20 Quyết Thắng as a symbol of willpower and patriotism. And rightly so: this historic road holds countless tragic yet inspiring stories — an invaluable legacy paid for in blood and sweat by those who came before us.

Today, the war is long past. Route 20 no longer echoes with bombs and gunfire, but with the rustling of ancient trees and the footsteps of visitors tracing their roots. For the people of Quảng Bình and the whole nation, this road remains a lasting source of pride — a quiet reminder to future generations of the immense sacrifices that secured our peace.

If you ever visit Quảng Bình, don’t miss the chance to explore Route 20 Quyết Thắng. Let history speak through the forest, and may it deepen your appreciation for the peace we enjoy today.

Display site inside the Command Cave

Highlighted Experiences

Visit Command Cave (7 levels, 150m long): A vivid recreation of wartime life, displaying weapons, military gear, a field hospital, communications room, and life-size figures of soldiers and youth volunteers carrying out missions in the deep Trường Sơn forest.
9D Virtual Reality Experience: Ride in a ZIL-131 truck simulator, with motion, wind, and battlefield smoke effects that let you feel what it was like to drive through bombs and fire on Route 20.
Trek the “K Route” through the primeval forest: Walk along a winding jungle trail, view exhibits of wartime tools and learn about the efforts of those who forged the legendary road.

Visitor Tips

Best time to visit: Early morning or late afternoon to avoid the heat and have ample time to explore the forest path.
Clothing: Wear trekking shoes or sports shoes, breathable clothing, and bring a light jacket — it’s cooler inside the cave.
Forest atmosphere: After exiting the cave, enjoy a gentle walk beneath the canopy of the ancient forest in Phong Nha – Kẻ Bàng National Park.
Booking tips: Book tickets online in advance to enjoy promotions and prepare your camera equipment if you wish to capture this one-of-a-kind experience.